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Matt Kryger/IndyStar When George Motz is on the road researching updates to his book “Hamburger America,” he eats around 20 burgers a week. “I usually eat the whole burger, too,” Motz admits, much to the chagrin of his doctor, no doubt. “I’m very aware of the dangers of the intake, but I’ve really slowed down in the last six months or so, and the reason I’ve slowed down is because I’ve become much more selective.
I don’t eat crap anymore.” Not every burger makes the cut: B. Spot Burgers by chef Michael Symon closes in Indianapolis Downtown Indy: These burgers make your grill irrelevant Billed by the New York Times as America’s “leading authority on hamburgers,” Motz used to test every burger place he encountered for his state-by-state guide to the United States' best burgers. These days, he whittles down the hundreds of burgers people recommend and then sets out to sample the finest. This weekend, Motz is checking out Indianapolis, where he’s making ramen bun burgers May 5 at Rev, a food and drink extravaganza that kicks off the Month of May at Indianapolis Motor Speedway. Tickets are still available at revindy.org. I caught up with Motz before Rev to talk best Indiana burgers and more. Miguel Rivas Q: You wrote a book about burgers.
You made a film about burgers. You did a television series about burgers. What was the burger that made you say, you know what, I’m making burgers my life’s work? A: “My early 20s, a place called The Apple Pan in Los Angeles.
I was doing a job out there. I flew in, and I got there late. So, I called a friend before I took off and said, ‘Where should I get food when I land at midnight?” and he said, ‘Oh the only place you need to go is The Apple Pan.’ So I walked into the place and thought, ‘What the hell is going on here?’ It was as if time was frozen in 1949 and no one told them. A complete relic. Total slice of American history, American diner history.
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I was totally blown away. I realized the burger at that point was more than the patty my dad makes in the backyard, that thing that a fast-food drive-thru serves, that there actually was substance behind the burger. There was history here, there were people and also a really great-tasting burger.”. George Motz Q: Describe the absolute perfect burger. A: 'Fresh ground beef is number one. Number two is simple things like mustard is very basic, onions are very basic, pickles. If you look at mustard, onions and pickles, that really goes back to the dawn of hamburger.
Burgers should not be abused by too many flavor components. A lot of restaurants make the mistake of either offering people whatever they want, which is always a problem, or they offer people too many ingredients that they have defined as their ‘signature burger.’ 'People are also putting too much stuff on that they think will look good in an Instagram photo, which makes me literally want to vomit. One of the worst examples is this stupid burger called the ‘mac and cheese burger.’ I’ve had one bite of a mac and cheese burger and it was one of the worst things I ever put in my mouth. It is the world’s stupidest idea for a burger. You don’t want to put hot pasta in your mouth when you’re trying to bite into a juicy burger.' Q: Best burger in Indiana? Can you pick just one?
There’s too many. Indiana has a really, really great hamburger culture. And it’s not just one (style of) burger. I’ve had so many incredible burgers in that state.
In Indiana, you have the benefit of being part of this lacy edge burger. It’s mostly in Illinois. If you draw a line right down the center of Illinois, from north to south, there’s this line of incredible hamburger spots that make this lacy edged burgerBut there’s a bunch in IndianaOne is The Workingman’s Friend (Indianapolis). Workingman’s Friend makes that same patty. It’s a very specific process where they smash the patty and then they push the edges out super thin, so the edges become almost like a beef candy; it’s like this really cool chewy beef. It’s concentrated beef and salt and flavor.
'You also have the GOM, which is down in the south, in Columbus, at a place called Zaharakos. It’s called a 'GOM Cheese-brr-grr' and it’s almost like a sloppy Joe where the cheese is mixed up. It’s a chopped cheese, actually, to be honest, which is a New York phenomenon, a Harlem phenomenon considerably. 'And up north, one of my favorite places is Heinnie's in Elkhart.
And you have the famous collection of burgers at Triple XXX (West Lafayette). Michael Heinz Journal & Courier 'And, oh my god, one of the greatest slider emporiums in America, one of the finest examples of the original American hamburger exists in Fort Wayne, Indiana, at a place called Powers. 'Powers makes a small, 1½-ounce slider, smashed with onions, the way I do it, but the reason I make my burger that way is because it’s the original American burger. My burger contains DNA from the first burgers that were made at White Castle and White Tower, all those White restaurants back in the ’20s, and Powers is still making that burger.
A very important piece of American history right in Fort Wayne.' Q: Most underrated burger in America?
A: 'A burger from Powers. I tell you what, it’s not pretty. They smash it and it’s flat and it’s just this mass of cheese and grease. And it’s hard to tell what you’re looking at. I try to take a picture, and it doesn’t come out right.
But it always tastes incredible. A classic onion-fried slider is the most underrated burger in America.' Q: Weirdest burger you've ever eaten? A: 'One of the good weird burgers I’ve had was actually in Brooklyn, at a place called Korzo.
They grill the burger patty and then they put a bunch of elements on it like cheese and pickles and onions, whatever, and then they take that patty and they wrap it up in almost like a doughnut dough called 'langos.' It’s like this deep-fried orb full of goodies. 'The nut burger at Matt’s Place in Butte, Montana, was this crazy mix of Miracle Whip and crushed, salted peanuts on top. I thought it was going to be disgusting, but everyone was ordering itIt was incredible.'
Q: Tips for getting the best version of a burger at any restaurant? A: 'Always make sure you ask, and don’t be embarrassed by asking, ‘Do you use fresh ground beef?’ That’s a really good question to ask because fresh ground beef is a point of departure to the next step, which is other fresh ingredients, just general care in the kitchen.
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'Also ask if it is a big seller because you don’t want to be the one to buy the second burger of the day if they’re only going to sell three burgers that day. You want to go to a restaurant that sells a lot of burgers because if it’s an afterthought, wellAnd I would never get a burger in, say, a seafood shack.
You want to get a burger in a place that sells meat.' Q: Never put on a burger? A: 'Number one is ketchupYou’ve all been brainwashed to think that ketchup goes on a burger. This goes back to the beginning of fast-food culture in America, where some of the big guys were putting ketchup on a burger to attract kids. Mustard is much more connected to a burger than ketchup in history.'
Q: Always put on a burger? A: 'The number one thing you should always have a burger is salt. 'You should always put onions on a burger, whether (onions are) raw or cooked. Originally, when onions were added to a burger it was to extend the meat. Onions were unbelievably cheap and plentiful. They could chop up a bunch and throw them on top of the burger or mashed into the burger in the beginning of the burger and it would make the burger patty bigger. They could use less meatOf course what they discovered was that it also added tons and tons of flavor.'
Q: What are you eating when you’re not eating burgers? Follow IndyStar food writer Liz Biro on Twitter: @lizbiro, Instagram: @lizbiro, and on Facebook. Call her at (317) 444-6264.